Tom, your balcony floor details are troubling. I don’t see how you get the waterproofing to work between the stud wall with (missing) exterior finish material and the concrete floor. The 2” topping (2” at the sill of the exterior wall I presume) makes it impossible to create an (ADA) accessible balcony. Why is there 1” topping under the planter, your note calls for 2” slopped, indicated as slopped to drain? The continuous floor slab is not a very good solution, as it presents a great thermal bridge from inside to outside. Vapor barrier should be on warm side of insulation. A good detail for the balconies would step the slab at the exterior wall, wrap the insulation from the exterior of the wall to the top of the slab and back to the exterior of the wall above. The deck would have a paver system on pedestals installed. The walls could be clad with a light weight material (trespa, metal panel, etc.) The insulation on the balcony floor would be a membrane; this membrane would travel at least 8” up the exterior wall.
Werner: The detail needs to be at much larger scale. The hollow core planks will have a 2" topping on the inside of the room to a point even with the exter panel system (noted on detail). Your are correct about the vabor barrier , however, it would need to be sprayed on the room (warm side) of the deck insulation. At the Balcony wall the exterior panel would have an interior drainage plane to move water to the deck drain. I have used a chaired system and it is great for access for a membrane that is below but more work. I believe the space is modest enough to have a deck coating which will be easier to construct and can appied with a "green" water based components. The slope of the drain in the detail is accentuated becasue it slopes from 2" to 3/4"(the minimum).
The planters are an exterior element and are there to channel water into the graywater system(along with the deck drains).
Thanks for bringing the itmes to my attention - I will provide further explanation on the final blog. Tom
2 comments:
Tom, your balcony floor details are troubling. I don’t see how you get the waterproofing to work between the stud wall with (missing) exterior finish material and the concrete floor. The 2” topping (2” at the sill of the exterior wall I presume) makes it impossible to create an (ADA) accessible balcony. Why is there 1” topping under the planter, your note calls for 2” slopped, indicated as slopped to drain?
The continuous floor slab is not a very good solution, as it presents a great thermal bridge from inside to outside.
Vapor barrier should be on warm side of insulation.
A good detail for the balconies would step the slab at the exterior wall, wrap the insulation from the exterior of the wall to the top of the slab and back to the exterior of the wall above. The deck would have a paver system on pedestals installed. The walls could be clad with a light weight material (trespa, metal panel, etc.) The insulation on the balcony floor would be a membrane; this membrane would travel at least 8” up the exterior wall.
Werner:
The detail needs to be at much larger scale. The hollow core planks will have a 2" topping on the inside of the room to a point even with the exter panel system (noted on detail). Your are correct about the vabor barrier , however, it would need to be sprayed on the room (warm side) of the deck insulation. At the Balcony wall the exterior panel would have an interior drainage plane to move water to the deck drain. I have used a chaired system and it is great for access for a membrane that is below but more work. I believe the space is modest enough to have a deck coating which will be easier to construct and can appied with a "green" water based components. The slope of the drain in the detail is accentuated becasue it slopes from 2" to 3/4"(the minimum).
The planters are an exterior element and are there to channel water into the graywater system(along with the deck drains).
Thanks for bringing the itmes to my attention - I will provide further explanation on the final blog.
Tom
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